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名家書薦 Elena Martinelli | 領(lǐng)略首飾背后的工藝魅力

● 2020.02.09

「名家書薦」第六期，我們邀請到了

來自意大利的首飾藝術(shù)家 Elena Martinelli

來給大家推薦一位 “重量級選手”

這本書重達(dá)3公斤

被譽為首飾界的“圣經(jīng)”

可能是有史以來

最全面的首飾制作和金屬加工指南

對工藝感興趣的小伙伴們可千萬不要錯過啦

藝術(shù)家 / Artist

Elena Martinelli

Elena Martinelli 是來自意大利的首飾藝術(shù)家，她在首飾制作和設(shè)計上有超過十五年的經(jīng)驗，擁有個人首飾品牌ELENA MARTINELLI Unique Jewellery。Elena 本科畢業(yè)于熱那亞大學(xué)工業(yè)設(shè)計專業(yè)，之后轉(zhuǎn)向金屬工藝與寶石鑒定專業(yè)學(xué)習(xí)，同時從事商業(yè)與藝術(shù)首飾的創(chuàng)作。她曾在阿姆斯特丹、上海、意大利、以色列等多個國家和地區(qū)舉辦個人展覽并獲獎，她也曾與多個國際公司合作，參與設(shè)計和制作眾多品牌的系列產(chǎn)品。

Elena Martinelli is a contemporary jewelry artist from Italy. She has more than fifteen years of experience in jewelry making and design, and owns personal jewelry brand ELENA MARTINELLI Unique Jewellery. Elena graduated with a bachelor's degree in industrial design from the University of Genoa, then she turned to metalsmith and gem identification. At the same time, she engaged in creating commercial and art jewelry. She has held individual exhibitions and won awards in many countries and regions such as Amsterdam, Shanghai, Italy, and Israel. She has also collaborated with many international companies to participate in the design and production of many branded products.

藝術(shù)家推薦書籍

Recommended Book

Jewelry: Concepts and Technology

《首飾：概念與工藝》

Author: Oppi Untracht

Hardcover: 840 pages

E：首飾工作室的書庫里總是有很多很棒的書籍，但我引用金匠Oppi Untracht的書遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)超過其他任何作者。

Oppi是紐約的一位金工大師，他寫了一本可能是有史以來最好的全方位首飾制作和金屬加工指南——《首飾：概念與工藝》。這本書是世界各地以及任何水平的珠寶設(shè)計師，工匠和制造商的全能圣經(jīng)和必備品！對于那些未從事該領(lǐng)域但希望了解首飾制作背后過程的人來說，它也是一個獨特的參考資源。

E: There are always a lot of great books in a jewellery studio library but I refer back to the books of metalsmith Oppi Untracht far more than those of any other author.

Oppi was a New York master metalsmith, who wrote what is probably the best all-around jewelry making and metalsmithing guide ever: Jewelry: Concepts and Technology. This book is de?nitely a must and all-around bible for jewelry designers, craftsmen, and manufacturers the world over and on all levels of ability. It is also a unique reference source for those not directly active in the ?eld but who wish to gain an understanding of what lies behind the jewellery-making process.

E：書中詳細(xì)介紹了有關(guān)貴金屬以及寶石的設(shè)計和制作各個方面的信息，并探索了首飾制作的歷史、工藝、工具、技巧和訣竅，全面介紹了所有傳統(tǒng)和創(chuàng)新的當(dāng)代技術(shù)。書中的插圖展示了特定工藝的工具和過程，30張分步照片演示則展示了珠寶大師從原材料到成品的制作過程。

E: This book is full of detailed information on every aspect of the design and crafting of precious metals and gemstones, as well as a fascinating exploration of jewelry-making throughout history, techniques, tools, tips and tricks. All traditional as well as innovative contemporary techniques are thoroughly described. Illustrations in the book show tools and processes used to carry out particular techniques and 30 step-by-step photo demonstrations show master jewellers working from raw material to finished jewels.

E：這900多張照片展示了各種復(fù)雜程度的作品，以及古往今來的首飾家在作品中所融合的各種不可思議的概念。具有歷史意義的首飾，民族首飾，以及來自26個國家近300名首飾家的當(dāng)代作品，被歸類在特定工藝下。這種布局體現(xiàn)了當(dāng)今富有創(chuàng)造力的首飾家與其同行之間相互的紐帶關(guān)系：以歷史風(fēng)格為導(dǎo)向的，和默默無聞的，以傳統(tǒng)為主導(dǎo)的民族首飾家。

E: The more than 900 photographs illustrate work of all degrees of complexity and show the incredible range of concepts which jewellers in all times incorporate in their work. Historic and ethnic jewellery, as well as contemporary work done by approximately 300 jewellers from twenty-six countries, are grouped under particular technical processes. This arrangement dramatically illustrates the mutual bonds between today's creative jewellers and their colleagues: historic style-oriented, and anonymous, tradition-dominated ethnic jewellers.

E：如果你是珠寶商、金屬工匠或珠寶設(shè)計師，你不該沒有它……它一定會是你工作室里折角最多的書。

E: If you are a jeweller, a metalsmith or jewelry designer you shouldn't be without it... It will be certainly the most dog-eared book in your studio.

除了上面這本珠寶圣經(jīng)

Elena還向我們推薦了Oppi其他幾本值得一讀的好書

例如《金屬上的琺瑯》和他的代表作《印度傳統(tǒng)珠寶》

有興趣的小伙伴可以去拜讀一下哦~

Selected Bibliography:

- Enameling on Metal (1957)

- Metal Techniques for Craftsmen (1968)

- Jewelry Concepts and Technology (1982)

- Saara Hopea-Untracht. Life and Work (1988)

- Traditional Jewelry of India (1997)

- Icons in Gold: Jewelry of India from the Collection of the Musee Barbier-Mueller (co-author 2006)

Elena 本人制作的首飾

工藝也十分細(xì)致

需要大量的耐心

每一件作品都獨一無二

傾注了她對工藝的無限熱愛

讓我們一起來欣賞一下吧

作品介紹 / Works

Elena 喜歡從大自然和人們的日常生活中捕捉靈感。她享受創(chuàng)造的過程，通過混合不同的金屬，從而形成不同的結(jié)構(gòu)質(zhì)地，展現(xiàn)出獨特的色彩效果。在作品中，她喜歡使用傳統(tǒng)工藝，體驗不同的材料和她發(fā)現(xiàn)的物品。

Elena likes to capture inspiration from nature and daily routine of people. She enjoys the process of creation. By mixing different metals, various structures and textures are formed, showing special color effects. In her works she like to use many traditional techniques as well as experience with different materials and found objects.

Wireframe

brass

Heartbreaking

silver, copper, enamel

Textures

silver, gold, copper, brass, patina

在Elena的設(shè)計中，她對于“珠子”這個元素格外偏愛：全部由手工制作的珠子組成的項鏈、用珠子點綴的戒指、零星散落的珠子藝術(shù)品…… 這源自于意大利撒丁人古老的造粒工藝，Elena通過數(shù)年研究和構(gòu)思，重新詮釋了傳統(tǒng)和古代技術(shù)，創(chuàng)造出了具有觸感和生命力的首飾。

In Elena's design, she has a particular preference for the element of "beads"- necklaces made entirely of handmade beads, rings embellished with beads, scattered beads of artwork... This is derived from the ancient granulation technique in Italy. Through years of research and design, Elena reinterpreted traditional and ancient techniques to create jewels with vitality and a tactile feeling.

Bell

brass, pearl

Sottobosco

wood, sterling silver oxidized

Growing precious

mixed metals with tiny river pearls

Elena認(rèn)為，對時間的感知在她的工作中十分重要。時間是一種珍貴的東西，它甚至比寶石本身更珍貴。她一直認(rèn)為她的首飾是用金屬、工藝還有時間制成的。她的許多作品都需要大量時間才能實現(xiàn)，而且要強迫性地重復(fù)相同的步驟。

Elena believes that the perception of time is very important in her works. Time is precious and it is even more precious than the gem itself. She always believes that her jewelry is made of metal, technology and time. Many of her works took a lot of time to realize and are forced to repeat the same steps.

Work in process

“

I also really like to create organic shapes that remind us of those organisms that live under the sea, or in undergrowth, such as corals or mushrooms, which are continuously growing.

我也很喜歡創(chuàng)造有機形態(tài)，這能讓人聯(lián)想到那些生活在海底或樹叢中的生物，比如珊瑚和蘑菇，它們總是生生不息。

”

—— Elena Martinelli

Growing Undersea

brass, pearl